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As we slowly descend the narrow, steep, rocky gravel road leading towards the east coast of Baja we soon realize we are headed to a very remote and isolated location.

After several hours of steep, winding downhill driving we arrive at a place we have been looking for… a remote beach with clean white sand, shallow warm waters, an abundance of sea and bird life surrounded by a stunning backdrop of some of the most scenic mountains in all of Baja.

When looking for a place to post up we typically gravitate towards the Sea of Cortez side of the peninsula. Compared to the Pacific side the East coast has warmer waters and no waves other than when the El Norte is blowing. 

As it turns out the beach we settle on is also a perfect anchorage for the sail boat crowd who are plying the Sea of Cortez this time of year. When we arrive there are several boats already on the hook.

No night clubs, no loud booming music, no off road vehicles racing around, no electricity, no fireworks, no cell signal, just a small quiet beach with dark night skies with millions of stars overhead.

When camped on the east coast of Baja one can sometimes awake to a surrealistic sunrise. The different hues of gold and orange can be outstanding. It just doesn’t get any better…with a cup of hot coffee in hand as we watch the day begin.

Mid-morning temps can easily reach into the low 80’s and is a great time to swim, kayak or paddle board. By evening we usually find ourselves sitting at the edge of the water talking with new friends and sampling our favorite adult beverages.

By the end the first week we realized we will not be leaving any time soon. By the end of the second week we are making a concerted effort to conserve water, our most precious commodity.

At this point our wine selection has become depleted and we were forced to drink Tecate light beer purchased from a local tienda just a mile away. A small price to pay to live in these glorious conditions.

By now we had learned to paddle board and spend our days kayaking across the bay, walking through the rugged mountains finding palm lined lagoons filled with fish and roosting vultures.

During our stay we have met many interesting and varied world travelers. For most this beach is a just a stop on their trek down the Pan American Hwy to South America.

Many of the South America bound folks are driving custom made overland type vehicles. Mann, Mercedes, Land Rover, German military, Iveko and Fuso’s were just a few of the types that passed through.

Many were mounted with homemade habitation modules, others factory made.  They typically stayed for just a few nights and then departed on their way south.

Each morning just before sunrise the beach came alive with pelicans, frigates and vultures soaring overhead. The pre-sunrise light reflected off the smooth glassy water illuminating the surrounding mountains with an orange glow, the best time of day.

By the third week we have perfected our daily routine. Up early to hand grind some beans for that perfect cup of Java then out onto the beach to catch the sunrise. Like clock work a pod of dolphins would circle the bay.

Each morning before the sun got too hot we would head out for a couple mile walk with Ruby leading the way.

After lunch it was time to take a small break, read a book or fall asleep in the shade. Later in the afternoon we would again swim, kayak or paddle board.

By evening folks on the beach would gather to visit, swap stories and discuss future trips.

By the fourth week we have become the old timers of the beach.

Ruby by now was the beach queen greeting everyone and overseeing all beach activities including playing with her never ending cycle of new dog buddies. She would often dig holes in the sand big enough for her to disappear into.

During this time we had met some very unique, wonderful and interesting folks. This was especially true of a young family living full-time on a sail boat just off shore from us.

Their 2 year old daughter Skylar became Ruby’s best buddy and they would play for hours on the beach together, digging holes and playing keep away.

Every few days new travelers would arrive and some would depart. After goodbyes we would all stand on the beach and cheer them on as they climbed the 16% grade leading away from the beach.

By the end of our last week we were almost out of drinking water. If wasn’t for this shortage we could just as easily have spent a few more weeks. Our time on this beach was some of the most enjoyable we have ever spent in Baja.

Great living conditions, spectacular scenery, interesting new friends, great local foods and with a very relaxed vibe, it just doesn’t get any better. But eventually it was time to move on.

The day we departed there were only a few other travelers left on the beach. We climbed up the steep grade, blew our air horn, waved and drove off into the spectacular mountains called Baja….we will miss this place.

As we packed up to leave we realized we had not driven anywhere for a over a month.  We will miss this simplistic life on this remote beach and will someday return. 

As we climbed the steep grade heading back to civilization it became apparent we had found a place where our daily lives had slowed down and our only focus was a day to day existence. 

We will always remember this place as one of the best times we have ever experienced in Baja.

“Someone once asked me, “Why do you always insist on taking the hard road?” I replied: “Why do you assume I see two roads?” (Author unknown)

The Adventure continues……